Local restaurants etch names in food history

Three restaurants in Hanoi and one in Ho Chi Minh City were bestowed with Michelin’s top honours

For the first time ever, the Michelin Guide unveiled a list of four prestigious Michelin-starred restaurants in Vietnam last week. These culinary gems, namely Anan Saigon in Ho Chi Minh City and the trio of Gia, Hibana by Koki, and Tam Vi in Hanoi, have etched their names in the annals of gastronomic excellence.

Beyond Michelin-starred establishments, 102 other dining establishments and culinary virtuosos across Vietnam earned their rightful places in the Michelin Selected category, the Michelin Guide Special Awards, and the Bib Gourmand section, reserved for affordable yet delectable dining experiences.

Following the much-anticipated unveiling of the Michelin results, social media went into a frenzy with a deluge of divergent opinions.

The list contained a slew of unexpected dining spots, leaving patrons dumbfounded and pondering the allure these establishments held for the local populace, while questioning the diminishing quality of their fare. Simultaneously, renowned and beloved local eateries were conspicuously absent from the prestigious roster.

Adding fuel to the fire, the so-called “affordable” restaurants, though reasonably priced for international visitors, proved exorbitant in comparison to the modest spending habits of the Vietnamese locals.

The guide employs an independent evaluation process, entirely detached from the influence of the restaurants themselves.

“The inspectors, shrouded in anonymity, ensured an impartial assessment. Each restaurant underwent scrutiny from multiple inspectors, who, adhering to the established guidelines, made a singular visit to the establishment, guaranteeing the integrity of the evaluation process,” a guide representative noted.

The Michelin Guide has become a source of contention not only in Vietnam but worldwide in recent times. Some chefs and culinary critics have voiced their disapproval, arguing that the Michelin star extravaganza had devolved into a mere marketing tool to promote chefs, overshadowing the celebration of true gastronomic excellence.

The fame, prestige, and spotlight that accompany a Michelin star can also sometimes weigh heavily on chefs and restaurants. Esteemed culinary maestros such as Joël Robuchon, Alain Senderens, Marc Veyrat, and Jean-Paul Lacombe have all declined Michelin stars for their establishments.

Nguyen Xuan Quynh, secretary-general of the Vietnam Chefs Association, acknowledged the mixed reaction within the industry. He empathised with the varied perspectives, understanding that tastes and aesthetics were subjective. “What tantalises one person’s palate may not resonate with another,” he said.

Nevertheless, according to Quynh, Michelin adhered to its independent evaluation criteria, honed over a century of practice in other countries. The fact that culinary scenes worldwide still held Michelin’s assessments in high regard attested to their credibility.

Nguyen Trung Khanh, director-general of the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism, told VIR, “I firmly believe that Michelin’s entry into Vietnam will exert a significant impact on international tourists seeking insights into Vietnam’s tourism landscape, ultimately becoming a crucial factor in their decision to explore Vietnam in the future.”

Khanh also expounded on Vietnam’s tourism roadmap, charting a course to 2030, where cultural tourism assumes its place as one of the several pillars of prominence.

“Vietnam has basked in the luminous glow of recognition, having garnered commendations from an assembly of world-renowned organisations. Notably, the country has also clinched the title of Asia’s premier gastronomic haven for three consecutive years at the World Culinary Awards,” he said. “The Michelin event will furnish us with the most excellent tool for propelling Vietnam’s tourism tapestry.”

Michelin Guide bestows stellar accolades on Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City Vietnam is celebrating the recognition of four exceptional restaurants with coveted Michelin stars. This momentous occasion marks the accolades bestowed on a total of 103 remarkable dining establishments, spanning across four esteemed award categories.