Discovering Tet in Vietnam

David Regenold, Arizona

“Each year we celebrate the New Year to close the books on one year, and open the new one with a fresh beginning. I live in a country where the New Year is celebrated on January 1. It wasn’t until I met my wife that I was introduced to the concept of celebrating the Lunar New Year.

I was introduced to banh chung and a few other customs. I learned (grudgingly) that I was expected to do a lot of house cleaning for Tet. Since we didn’t live in an area that had a large Asian population, our celebration was limited to a small home celebration with a few other family members.

Over two years ago I visited Hanoi. I was not there for Tet, but sitting on the banks of Hoan Kiem Lake, listening to the hum of the city, watching people exercising in the shade or racing past on their motorbikes, who could not want to be there when the city is alive with celebration and festivities?

Since then, I have watched many videos and seen many pictures of the Tet celebration in Hanoi. Since leaving, my dream has been to go back someday. After all, a New Year’s celebration is a time to dream about the future.

This Tet, we will be celebrating at a Vietnamese friend’s house who has invited us over. But my dreams will be in Hanoi, and someday I’ll be back to celebrate Tet the way it was meant to be celebrated (but I hope not to be doing any house cleaning while I’m there.)”

Dietmar Kielnhofer, Austrian

“I can say unequivocally Tet is a very romantic and moving time to be in Vietnam, respective Ho Chi Minh City. The flower street in District 1 is absolutely fantastic, so is the decoration on Dong Khoi street.

The love, passion and total commitment that goes into decorating the city for this once-a-year-event is highly commendable. I salute the authorities for this.

I enjoy the serene and peaceful atmosphere, especially the flower set up on Le Loi street. What I don’t like is it is almost too quiet, almost eerie. Ho Chi Minh City is a very dynamic and bustling metropolis so when it gets suddenly very quiet that gives you an almost ethereal feeling.

You can almost say I miss the chaos and vibrancy on the street (I mean this in a positive manner).

During Tet, you should spend time with the family and your loved ones! What is in the Western world Christmas is in Vietnam Tet. Take the opportunity to connect with your family, share experiences (and share gifts with the less privileged in Vietnam), tell stories and generally have a good time and relax together. In my opinion Tet is time for healing, but it is also the time of introspection and caring.

James Edward Goodman, American

“I’m always pleased to be in Hanoi for Tet. I especially enjoy the last few busy days before New Year. The weather is generally unpleasant, the traffic horrendous and the streets so crowded with shoppers and sellers it can be difficult to move around easily.

But the mood is truly festive. People are out buying all those things from food and drink to decorations, for the purpose of having a good time over the next several days and nights.

The markets are frenetic, but enjoyable and it’s good to see items like peach blossoms, kumquat trees and all different kinds of special house decorations for sale again.

Then Tet officially begins and the streets are suddenly all but empty, shops locked up and hardly any vehicles on the street – save a few taxis and xe om operating at three times the normal rate. The contrast always stuns me.

Aside from the mood of the people, the general happy atmosphere and the stage shows around Hoan Kiem Lake, the most attractive events of the holidays for me are the feasts to which my Vietnamese friends invite me.

I never eat anywhere so well as I do in Hanoi during Tet. I never have to drink so much alcohol as that time, either, and I usually prepare myself to survive the rounds of ruou during Tet by gradually increasing my daily intake of whiskey from two weeks ahead of time. If I didn’t, I might not have the tolerance necessary to drink and still be able to appreciate the fireworks the last night of the old year.

For New Year in America, we have big parties, lots of alcohol, countdowns and fireworks to ring in the coming year. But next day, after a sobering sleep, the only special activity is watching the college championship football games on television. 

Compared to Vietnam, New Year in the West is more low-key, a single holiday, really, without the sense of renewing spiritual and temporal ties with their gods and their families that characterizes Tet activities among the Vietnamese. There are many links to re-confirm, so Tet, with these more serious purposes, lasts several days. In the West, it’s just a day off from work.

Natalia Anderson, Australian, and David Benton, British

“Three years ago we spent Tet in Saigon while we were waiting for the birth of our daughter Tia.

We remember going up to our roof to watch the fireworks, and feeling relieved that she hadn’t chosen to make an appearance that night.

Otherwise we would have been stuck in traffic trying to reach the hospital, and she might have been born in a taxi!

When we have a child and a family, spending Tet in Vietnam becomes more special of course.

For one, it’s always wonderful sharing a new experience with your child; secondly, children make celebrations like Tet and Christmas more enjoyable because their excitement is contagious.

We love the peaceful days when the streets are quiet because families are at home spending time together.  We don’t enjoy trying to book a last minute holiday - it’s near impossible.

During Tet, if you have the opportunity, you should visit Vietnamese friends and their families to experience the true spirit of Tet. Also, take some lucky money to an orphanage, or even just hand some out to kids in your neighbourhood, and watch their faces light up. 

If you’re in the city centre on Tet eve don’t try to get home too soon after midnight – hang around to watch the dragon dances and wait for the crowds to disperse.”

Drew Taylor, Canadian

“I once spent Tet travelling without any real plan and all-in-all, it worked out quite well. My wife and I headed to Vinh and had intentions of simply hiding from the rest of Vietnam during Tet.

So, we flew to Danang and met up with another person there and then took the train to Vinh. I hadn’t done much research on Vinh and so I had no expectations, which was probably good because it really is not a place that brings a smile to anyone’s face.

Vinh was a huge disappointment. So we actually checked out immediately and spent a rainy day looking for something to eat.

Deciding that it wasn’t worth our time and jumped into a taxi that took us out past Ha Tinh to a small hillside location called Nuoc Sot. We had no idea what to expect and hadn’t put any thought into how were going to get back.

But we arrived eventually and quickly realized that the only people that were there was the staff who actually called that place home. So they opened up a bungalow for us and turned on the hot water.

The water was actually diverted into a swimming pool that had the resemblance to the Saigon River (i.e. not worth putting your foot in!) But, the river that ran along this “resort” (if you could call it that) was beautiful and clean.

I spent most of the day taking photos while my wife and her friend hid from the rain and the cold and that was just perfect from me because there was not a soul around to bother me in my photographic pursuits. And that night we had deep fried Tet cake, which the local staff prepared for us from their seemingly endless supply of Tet cake!”